Archive for the ‘Props’ Category

News: Spotted by the RPG Business

Posted: September 13, 2011 by Patrick Dubuc in General, News, Prop Documents
Tags: , , , , , , , ,


Did I told you guys my mind was hyperactive? I always have a couple of projects running at the same time in my head …

Last winter for example, I worked with Colin Chapman (Author of Atomic Highway RPG) on his next supplement that should see the day before the end of the year. I also whipped out a very cool character sheet (For fun) for ICONS Super Powered RPG. I posted that sheet on my Deviantart account (DerekFrost) and kinda forgot about it.

I logged back on my Deviantart about a week ago only to realize that Dan Houser, the head illustrator for ICONS loved my character sheet and used it at JAFAX earlier this year!

I pushed my luck and wrote back to Mr. Houser to see if the sheet could be included in a future ICONS product (as long as I get the credit for it) and he wrote back to tell me that they might even buy it! Cool! Anyway … While I wait for a reply, here’s the character sheet … I know it’s not really related to Props but let’s call it a shameless plug!

Have a nice Dorky Day!
Patrick “Hyperactive Cortex” Dubuc


Ok this one has been a pain in the *ss! Working alone, trying to hold the foam parts in one hand while glueing with the other has proven to be harder than I first thought … I have learned some important stuff though:

1. Hot glue is … Well hot! I managed to burn the tip of my finger … Now it has a big blister waiting to pop.
2. Pre-Glueing. Put the amount of hot glue you want and when ready to apply, use your heater gun to make the glue liquid again. Very useful.
3. Always check on what side your foam is BEFORE glueing. That way, you will avoid having to start back and waste foam in the process …
4. For my first project with EVA Foam … I was bold in my design choice. What i’m saying here is to go with a simple design. Add stuff later if you want.
5. Work in an a calm, remote area if you’re easily sidetracked like me …

And finally …

6. Believe in yourself! Don’t stop at the first mistake. I know it’s frustrating having to start over some parts the first time but you will be so upset that chances are … You’ll never make these mistakes again!

More soon … Have a nice Dorky Day!


This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Things have been going crazy this week in my life so unfortunately, I didn’t had as much time as I wanted to work on my projects … There is although some work that has been done on my Futuristic Armor (See Work In Progress: Pat’s Futuristic Armor) … Here are some photos of what’s in the work:


Well … That’s it for now … I should have another update by the end of the day … Paint job mostly … But things are looking good! I should be ready for ComicCon!

Made this one years ago (Can’t remember for how long as a matter of fact) … Pretty simple but the effect was really impressive.

I went at McDonald to eat and saw a Duel Masters Card Case that was given away with Happy Meals. I bought the toy separately (99 cents I think) and brought that home. The only thing I had to do is to paint this little sucker silver and used a dark brown acrylic paint that I wiped roughly … leaving dark brown paint in all the cracks and details of the case. The final result now …

J’ai fais ce projet il y a de celà plusieurs années (En fait je ne me rappelle même plus quand) … Très simple mais l’effet était impressionnant.

Je suis allé au McDonald pour manger quand j’ai aperçu un étui à carte Duel Masters qui était donné gratuitement avec les Joyeux Festins. Je l’ai acheté (99 sous je crois) et je l’ai rapporté à la maison. Tout ce que j’ai eu à faire c’est de peindre l’étui avec une couche d’argent et ensuite, une couche de brun foncé que j’essuyais au fur et à mesure et de façon très négligée … laissant ainsi de la peinture dans les fissures et les détails de l’étui. Et maintenant le résultat final …

Time has gotten the better of this one though … the paint is now flaking …

Leaving now … Later!
À plus tard …


Well … It’s 5:22 in the morning and I can’t sleep … I was thinking about my Specimen in a Jar project and managed to convince myself in making a specimen instead of buying a Ready-to-use one. I was making concepts in my head and then I came to the mouth of the “Thing”. How the hell am I going to make something cool? Then I thought about a bunch of fossilized rocks I have and remembered I had somewhere in there a fossilized small shark tooth! I found it! Once molded and replicated, this little thing of beauty is going to become a wicked creature’s mouth! Oh! Here’s a picture of the tooth i’m talking about …

Added a D10 in the picture as a size reference …

August 8th 2011

Ok so here we go again … Today … I molded the teeth of the Thing In The Jar … It was a fairly cheap project so here’s how I did it:

I looked over for some “Rack” to put my play dough in … I manage to find the plastic cover of a sandwich container. If you look more closely, you will notice that the cover has a nice place to stuck in my play dough. You could use about just anything though. Some will build mold with woods and I even saw people making their molds into LEGO Blocks … Heck use your imagination!

 Then proceed in filling your “Rack” or mold if you prefer with the play dough …

Do as many imprints as you need. I’m not sure yet of just how much I will be able to fit into the mouth of the sucker so I went for 16.

 Once that done, plug in the hot glue gun and while it heats up, use some kind of stuff that will help you unmold later. I used Vegetable Oil in spray … It made my teeth a bit rough … You might consider brushing oil instead (Or any other tricks you might have).

 When the glue gun is hot enough, fill  the molds gently and take extra precaution not to make air bubbles. To do so, just start in the corner of each mold and pour slowly the hot glue while filling the entire mold. If done appropriately, it should work. You might want to consider putting your mold in the freezer a couple minutes to make things go faster.

 Once the glue is set, unmold and gently brush under running cold water. Any play dough excess will go away.

 Then, using a nail clipper or scissors, carefully take away any excess glue. It doesn’t really matter if they end up being different from one another since normal teeth are not alike.

 At this step, I decided to make my teeth more “smooth” by using a Dremel Tool to work them out as I wanted them.

Well … That’s it for now …

Okay, I decided to go ahead and post my progress on that “main” project I’ve been working on for a few months now…

Let me start by saying that I was almost done with the armor plates when I “noticed” that the paint I was using wasn’t sticking to the plastic… I tried to chuck it out to bad paint or cheapo paint… But I soon realized that even a good quality plastic primer was not enough. That type of plastic just doesn’t want to be painted… At all… FYI. It’s called HDPE (high density polyethylene) fancy word for “that plastic they use to make the big blue plastic drums”. Since these drums are designed to hold chemicals, they are EXTREMELY “non-sticky” (whoa, what a scientific word!). What I want to say is: DON’T USE THIS TYPE OF PLASTIC unless you’re fine with the color as it is and you have no intention of painting it.

Okay… I have nonetheless a little bit of progress, my helmet (or bucket as I’m gonna refer to from now on) is taking shape.

Here are some pics of the process (with descriptions this time)

I started my bucket with a hard hat for the dome part. The bottom part was made using the Wizard Of Flight templates on card stock and cardboard which I resined and fiber glassed.

Here you can see that I buffed out the "fin" on top of the hat and smoothed all that down with Bondo auto filler...

Okay, I’m starting to get hang of this picture posting process… Takes forever though…!! 😉

A little (and by "little" I mean A WHOLE DAMN LOT) sanding and Bondo work and a coat of primer (which helps to see all the imperfections).

Same stage, side view.

This is the left ear piece I made using PVC as a base, some foamie and a little wooden stick (the kind you would use to stir your coffee I guess). Later I resined the whole thing (no pics of it with the resin on, sorry)

It may not show on these pics but there's a lot of fine tuning, sanding, filling, re-sanding...

Same stage. Side view.

And now for the armor…

Like I said in the beginning of this post, I don’t have much to show (anymore) but here it is anyway.

This is what I have done so far. I used a 6" PVC pipe which I cut and heated to get it flat (I slid it between two plywood boards and put a few cinder blocks to add weight). Once it was flat (and it doesn't have to be super flat), I traced the templates, cut 'em with my rotary tool and trimmed 'em. After that I shaped them using a heat gun. Shocked them in to the desired shape (by dipping them in cold water).

Same stage, different view.

Now, before I go too far in the process, I WILL do some paint tests (even though PVC is not supposed to be a problem as far as accepting paint)…

Let you know how it turns out.

Okay, that’s it for now, I’ll try and keep this post up to date the best I can.

See ya!


Yay!! Happy happy! Joy joy! The paint seems to be sticking on the PVC…!! Tried it yesterday and came up with this…:

This is after 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of "chrome" paint... I'll give it 2 coat of clear for protection and then start the battle damage and carbon scorching and everything...!

I also went and cut out a Mandalorian skull symbol out of the same PVC I used for the plates… I will glue it on my back plate.

View #1 (no paint or primer or anything yet).

View #2

Allfighty, back for a little update…

I painted the weathering/battle damage on the plates I have. Couldn’t do anymore plates because I’m waiting on a friend who could hook me up with free PVC sheets… Anyway, here’s what I have so far…

This is my right chest plate. I've laid 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of silver (I'm not putting any clear 'cause the paint is high quality and doesn't require any clear, plus it messes up the shine of the silver paint). The yellow stuff is... well... mustard. Yep plain ol' mustard...! It serves as a mask, everywhere you see mustard, you will see silver when the colors re added...

This is what I came up with the first color. You can see the spots where I put the mustard, they are "battle scratches" now...!

And the final color, I'm gonna be a white Mando (duh)...! The left plate will not be like what you see on the picture, I kinda botched the paint job a little bit and I also forgot to make the holes for my chest display (little blinky lights ad "numbers").

Well… I’ve been looking at the plates over and over again… And I’ve decided that, hum… I’m not happy with the paint job… I think the “paint chipping”/battle damage is to big and too obvious… I want it to be a little more subtle… Guess I’ll be redoing it soon… I’ll keep you guys posted… sooner than later I hope!!

Guess what people… Turns out the plastic I used for my first set of plates was in fact “okay” with the paint… I just didn’t wait long enough (BIG shocker)… Also, I think it might have been too hot and humid when I painted them the first time… I took a piece out of a box the other day (good thing I hadn’t thrown them away) and I realized that the paint was sticking very well… SOOOO… I’ll be able to use my “old” plates (made of HDPE) after all… For now, I’m waiting on the spray adhesive to dry COMPLETELY… After that I will finally be able to paint the suckers…! More updates coming next week… I hope…!


Updates… Small updates…

Here it is, everything is coated with the spray adhesive, the only part missing are the gauntlets (which are in the first stages of Pepakura, I have to resin and fiber glass  them) and my bucket (I’m sealing it to get it ready to be molded)…

Yep almost everything is there...

And here’s a detailed shot of my back plate with the raise skull…

Pretty sweet huh? Hope it stays on there...!!!

Allright like I said, it’s a small update but it’s something…!!

‘Till next time, take care!

Work In Progress: Pat’s Futuristic Armor

Posted: August 2, 2011 by Patrick Dubuc in Props, Tips, Update, Work In Progress
Tags: , , , ,

As you can see, both me and Wil are making a Futuristic Armor. I try to use a very precise methodology and I would like to share today with you what i’ve done so far:

1. Research:
When I decided to go ahead with a Futuristic Armor project, I decided to search the Internet for some references. I gathered from across the web 11 designs that I liked more than the others (A 12th joined the rank later on). I layed them in front of me and highlighted/circled the details I liked the most about each models. As you can guess, I will not show the references chosen here due to Copyrights Infringement …

2. Sketch:
I took my sketch pad (I suck at drawing … badly!) and I layed down a sketch of the armor I wanted. I have to be honest with you. Even though your sketch rocks … Your final armor will most probably be different from that sketch … Use it anyway as a reference point just in case you tend to sidetrack. Won’t show my sketch … You might believe it’s a smashed fly on a piece of paper anyway.

3. Measurements:
Since we’re building an armor here … Measurements are pretty straightforward.

A - From armpit to armpit / B - From shoulder blade to waist

Ok so with this being said … Wil is an average size bastard … I hate him … I’M NOT AVERAGE SIZE! The issue i’m having is that an average size EVA Foam mat is 24″ x 24″ (Or 22″ x 22″ if you take away the connecting parts) Sooooo … I decided to go ahead and make the biggest vest I could and decided that I would put additional lengt of EVA along the way in the details. Optionally … You can do like me. Since I can’t draw, I took an old sleeveless shirt from my drawers and cut it with scissors. Don’t tell my wife … SSsssshhht!

4. Making the pattern:
I layed my shirt on carboard and traced around it as accurately as possible in dotted lines. Then, using a ruler and a black marker, I carefully retraced the lines so it curves smoothly. Then cut your pattern.

Trace only half of it ... That way, you'll be sure that both sides are the same size!Facing and Backing done.Facing and Backing done.

5. Use pattern on EVA Foam:
Using your pattern, carefully trace your lines using a black marker on the EVA Foam. You can still make modifications and or adjustment at this state … LAST CHANCE!

6. Cut the EVA Foam:
Using a sharp knife or a scalpel that you lube/grease or heat, cut along the lines you just made. Try to be as steady as possible and keep your blade straight. I learned from my mistakes. Some of my cuts are inclined … It should not be noticeable at the end though.

I could have make the neck part more round ...

Pretty satisfied with this one!

7. Details:
Start designing details to add to your armor. I decided to start with a central point. For me, it was the spine on the back …

Could have made this one into one part and could have added details using the Dremel Tool though.

I first measured the length of a single piece by taling my reference picture, measuring one piece of the spine and then one of his finger. Then, I measured one of my own finger and using a simple mathematical formula (I let you guess that one), I was able to determine the length of each piece of the spine. I then drawed it on cardboard and traced it on EVA. Cut it using the same methods than the base of the armor and smoothed each piece using the Dremel Tool. The end result should be interesting …


8. Assemble your armor parts and for now, tape them together using masking tape.
9. Replace/Modify the armor parts as needed to get a nice finish.
10. Glue the parts together using Contact Glue.
11. Add details using 3mm. and/or 6mm. EVA Foam sheets (These can be found in scrapbooking department).

And the rest is yet to be added here … As I work on my armor …